Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Life Decisions, Little Cabbages, and Six Reasons I'm Turning into a Russian

     Well, so much for consistent blogging...three weeks is really an unforgivable gap. Sorry to anybody who has been reading regularly - it's kind of hard to read regularly when the blogger fails to write regularly! Also, I want to put a note here about people's blog comments - I do read them, and I do appreciate them, but as of yet I haven't figured out how to post responses - for some reason I can never get the reply box to open!

 Look! Proof positive there is sunshine in Russia in winter!!!

      It's taken me awhile to get in the proper mindset to blog, probably because I've had a lot on my mind recently. When I was ten, twenty seemed like the epitomy of adulthood - I mean, good grief, the Little Mermaid got married at 16, so surely four years after that you would have everything figured out in life! However, much to my dismay, I'm finding that even at the ripe old age of twenty-two I still have only an extremely small amount of anything "figured out." It feels more like the older I get, the less I realize that I actually know. Unfortunately, one of those unknowns is the answer to what I'm going to do with myself next year. My first few months in Russia I was so busy adjusting to everything that I was really too busy to ponder much about the future. And besides, it was still 2011, way too early to think about the second half of 2012 yet. However, time is marching on, and the middle of February is slipping by, and I still don't know what I will be doing in the fall. I'm torn, because part of me really wants to go home - I miss my family so much. But another part of me thinks that one year is not enough time to spend in Russia, and that now that I've found a dance group I really love, it would be foolish to throw that away after only half a year spent dancing there, especially since I doubt an equivalent company could be found back in the States. I know that I'm capable of doing any number of things, but I don't know what I want to do, so I'm rather directionless at the moment. But my antenna's tuned towards Heaven, so I'm sure I'll get an answer sooner or later (preferably sooner!) as to what God has in mind for me.
     On those two notes (God + dance), I want to talk some about the dance group I've joined. It really is funny how God works. All my life He has worked miracles so that I could dance - from inspiring generosity in the heart of the studio owner when dance lessons got too expensive, to giving me a teacher who taught me so much about dance and about how it can bring such joy to others, to making it possible for me to continue dancing through college, to bringing me here to Russia, and, in this huge city with millions of people, introducing me to this small group of dancers who are doing just the kind of dancing I love. When I first came to Moscow, I thought that I had to join a professional ensemble - I had this idea in my mind that I needed to prove myself as a true dancer, and the only way to do that would be to become a member of a professional group. So at first, I was disappointed with myself  when I didn't find a professional group where I seemed to fit. But now I've realized that I'm so glad I became a member of this group instead - where the dancing standards are still high, but the atmosphere is so much friendlier. I don't do very well with backbiting and nasty competitiveness - I can take it alright, but it really bothers me to inflict it on others, and to some extent you have to do that in a lot of professional companies. So I've realized that, for now, I'm exactly where I need to be. (The problem is figuring out where to go from here!)
     And speaking of the dance group, let's talk about little cabbages! (Since I'm sure you're dying to know what I meant by putting that in the title!) In Russian, it's капустник (kaPUSTneek), and although it means "little cabbage," in the theatre world it's also the name for an in-house performance just for the company. It's a really fun day where everyone does silly skits, parodies each other, and does dances just for fun. We had one two weekends ago to celebrate the company's birthday, and it was great! We got there early and decorated the basketball court/studio with balloon arches and ribbons, and a makeshift stage - half the court- with one set of curtains between us and the audience and another set at the back to provide a narrow backstage area behind. Everyone, from the little four-year-olds to the parents did something. Our group did a skit where Ivan is searching for the magical flying ship Возрождение (VozrozhdYENiye) ( the name of the group), and in order to find it he has to collect magical talismans from different fairytale and popular characters. I had bit parts in some of these - one of Aladdin's accompanying dancing girls, a wizard with Harry Potter, and a snowflake in attendance on the Snow Queen - and it was really enjoyable. I wish companies in the States had this tradition, but if they do I don't know about it. I think it's healthy to laugh at yourself once in a while, and I feel like a lot of times in companies it's possible to be too serious about The Worship of the High Art of Dance and to lose perspective. Anyways, it was great fun!
     Besides dancing and teaching, I haven't had time to do much else recently. At the moment I'm in a flurry of choreography-learning, because my dance group has a concert in mid-April, and I've also bought tickets to go the Bolshoi then, both of which I'm REALLY excited about. My flatmate, Tom, got a job in translating, so he has moved back to England. It's good for him; I think it's what he really wanted to do, but it's weird not seeing him around the flat anymore. However, Kristin and I are set to get a new roommate on Saturday - a girl this time - so we'll see how that works out. It almost feels like our apartment is cursed - people never seem to stay for very long!
    On a completely different subject, I think I'm turning into a Russian. Well, not exactly, but I did notice some changes recently that I thought it might be amusing to note.
     1. Ice is no big deal.
      Back in NC, ice is a rare thing. Even the thought of the possibility of ice is a reason to cancel school, and if there is a square foot patch of ice in our driveway everyone does an elaborate dance to avoid it, pointing it out to each other, "Careful, there's ice!" All of this seems extremely amusing to me now, as the philosophy for clearing the paths in the park I walk through every day is to run a tractor with a sweeper at the back through the park once - which serves to clear away a bit of snow, but mostly just to compact it into ice. Therefore, most of the time when I'm walking I'm walking on that same dangerous substance that strikes terror in the hearts of all at home...and I'm not dead yet! I haven't even fallen down but once! This is not to say that I'm ready to run through the snow in high-heeled boots as I've seen a friend of mine do, but who knows what might happen before the ice melts?

    2. -10 Celsius is WARM.
     The funny thing is that, at least for me, after the temperatures drop below freezing the sensation of "cold" doesn't really intensify all that much from -5 to -30. Granted, I bundle up more, but really I feel the low temperatures more through other ways than feeling cold. At -30 the inside of your nose freezes, and your breath frosts the front of your coat, and your fingers and toes go from cool to numb in a matter of seconds if you don't have the proper gear. But -10 is really not bad at all - and after -30, it's positively balmy!

 some sunrise shots walking to work at 9:00



 the ice rink in the park - planning to go skating there sometime! 


 sunset on the same day, walking home from work at 6:00

3. Part of the reason I can be so nonchalant about -10 is that I have a real Russian winter coat!
     It's not true fur, but it's so warm and fuzzy and wonderful. It's not mine, but a very generous friend's. She saw my Closet Coat and decided it wasn't sufficient, and offered to let me borrow an extra coat of hers that is a bit too big for her. It's got fur around the hood and everything - I feel so delightfully Russian when I wear it!


4. I like sushi.
     For the longest time, I haven't been able to stomach even the idea of sushi, but so many people told me how wonderful it was here that I finally got up the guts to try it. I thought, for some reason, that it would taste like dead raw fish smells, but it's actually pretty good! I think to some extent it's an acquired taste, but I wouldn't be against trying it again sometime.

 photographic proof

5. I can understand and speak Russian on the phone when rousted out of bed in the morning.
     A couple of days ago my landlady called me, waking me out of a sound sleep, and not only did I understand what she said, I could actually respond - I have no idea whether the grammar was correct or not, but the man actually did come to fix the sink when I thought he was coming. (Which leads to an amusing anecdote - Tom held a going-away party two weeks ago, on Saturday night. Just before the 10+ partygoers started showing up at the door, our toilet decided that the time had come to refuse to flush. At all. And all of my old house experience was to no avail, since toilets are constructed differently here. However, we made it through the party alright, and made plans to call the landlady first thing the next morning. I woke up extremely early to catch the metro to the dance studio to decorate for the kapustnik, and when I came into the bathroom an unpleasant shushing noise met my ears - the sink was leaking down the back beneath the bowl, and it had created a small puddle on the floor. I couldn't find the valve to shut off the water; I was running late, and it was 6 in the morning, so it was way too early to call the landlady, so I stuffed my towel around the base of the sink, left a note for Tom, and skedaddled. About two hours later he called me, "Um, Hannah, did you know there's a lake in the bathroom?" Apparently the poor boy, when he saw the sink was leaking, decided to turn the water on, and after that the drip became a flood, evidenced by the fact that when I came home the floor was dry but there was a mountain of damp towels, dishrags, and shirts in the bathtub.)

6. I don't read the signs in the metro.
     Most of the time this means that I know where I'm going so I don't need to look anymore. But as one of my Russian friends told me when this happened to the two of us, the true test of becoming a Moskvitchka is when you end up going the wrong way because you are too busy talking to your friend to notice where you're going.

     On that note, I know where I'm going right now - TO BED. Moskvitchkas need their sleep!
    
    
    

Saturday, January 21, 2012

TMM Moscow News Update

     "And now to the weather report. Well, folks, here in Moscow today we've got temperatures around -11 Celsius (about 12.2 Farenheit to all you Farenheiters) with wind and light snow, which are currently working together to freeze the nose off of English teachers throughout the city whenever they try to poke that particular portion of the anatomy out of doors. Therefore, if you are an English teacher, or if you are a concerned family member, it is probably best to make sure that you or your relative stays indoors in bed next to a heater in the interest of facial preservation. However, I'm sure we'll have some foolhardy souls who will feel conscience-driven to fight their way across the park to their place of work; for these people we have a special warning message: If you feel obligated to go to work because you have a makeup class with a plagiarizing teenage boy who is making up his class because he was so late that the last time he missed his class entirely, then it's a better idea just not to bother - he'll miss his class today as well, and once again you will just be sitting in the classroom lesson planning for other lessons for the whole 45 minutes. However, compensation may occur in the form of a chance to teach a makeup lesson for your six-year-old student, who at the end of the lesson will decide that she loves you so much you cannot leave and will try to physically block your way out the door."
     "In other news in the past few weeks, many English teachers have been suffering from a lack of motivation coming off of the holiday; psychologists contend that the heavy snow, intense cold, and lack of sunlight may play some part in that problem. In an interview, one teacher expressed the opinion of many when she said, 'It's just unnatural to go to work when it's dark outside. When it's dark people should be sleeping. We should only work when it's daylight.' However popular this viewpoint might be amongst the English-teaching population, economists say that such a movement, were it to extend throughout Moscow, could have an extremely negative effect on the economy, especially considering that "daylight" in the middle of winter doesn't begin until around 11:00 and only lasts three to four hours."
     "And now to our correspondent in flat no. 409, with an update on the latest affairs of the three English teachers whom we've been following for the past few months. But first, a brief commercial break."
     *Commercial Break*
HELLO FOLKS! Do you ever worry about the chill of the Moscow winter? Do you ever wonder if maybe temperatures really will drop to -30 Celsius like everyone says they will? Do you ever doubt your own ability to cope with the cold? Well, we here at CoatzGalore have the solution! The all-new Closet Coat! This remarkable coat will keep you warm in the depths of winter...without you even having to wear it! The latest research by psychologists has shown that being "cold" is practically all mentality! With our Closet Coat, you can dress to impress without having to muffle it all up under heavy wraps by simply fixing your mentality. Here's how it works: First you install the trusty Closet Coat in your closet. Then, whenever you go outside, you dress in a lighter coat, something like our "Fall Wool" style, but you think about the heavy Closet Coat that is sitting back home. Whenever you start to feel "cold," just think how warm you will be later on in winter, when the temperatures are colder and you can start wearing your Closet Coat! The longer you can wait, the warmer you will be! Make "cold" a thing of the past! Buy a Closet Coat today!!!"
SURGEON GENERAL'S WARNING: TESTS ON ENGLISH TEACHERS HAVE SHOWN THAT THE CLOSET COAT IS ONLY EFFECTIVE WHEN ACTUALLY WORN. TRYING TO WEAR A FALL COAT IN SUB-ZERO TEMPERATURES CAN BE HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH, EVEN IF YOU ARE TRYING TO SAVE YOUR HEAVIER COAT FOR COLDER WEATHER. IT DOESN'T MAKE SENSE. JUST WEAR YOUR HEAVY COAT. DON'T BE STUPID.
Welcome back to TMM Moscow, all news, all the time! Patricia, over to you."
    "Thanks, Bob. Well here I am, standing in the kitchen of flat 409, and well, I can't say it smells that great in here. In fact, I think something might be burning...ah, yes! It appears that someone put a sponge in the microwave in an attempt to kill the bacteria. She must have learned that trick from her dad back home. But, dear me! Was there really a need to put it in for four minutes?!? I think not. It's quite an original-looking sponge now, though, especially with that scorch mark in the middle." 
     "Well, I'll just leave the window open for a bit to let the smell out, and let's continue on to one of the other rooms, shall we?"
     "Ah, yes, and here's the room of our young teacher Hannah. She's out at the moment at the school, or perhaps looking for her frozen nose where it chipped off in the park, so we can speak with indiscretion. Hmm, Bob, have we heard anything interesting about Hannah lately?"
    "Let me check the files, Patricia...well, last time we reported on her trip to the Kremlin with her young neighbor, let's see, since then... well, she took a trip to the Novodevichy Convent with her colleague and friend Teya."
     "Oh, yes, that's right! Now, for our listeners, the Novodevichy Convent is a World Heritage site. Founded in the early 1500s, it has sheltered famous members of the Russian royal family such as Irina Godunova and Sophia Alekseyevna. It is still a working convent today, though at the moment the largest church is closed for renovation. One of the buildings has been turned into a museum of church history, which consists entirely of small pictures of churches in various stages of renovation and a few explanatory paragraphs. If you pay 250 rubles, you can go and see this dazzling exhibit. Our uncultured teacher found it quite boring and regretted paying the money to get in, unfortunately.

 the bell tower

 approaching the outside walls

 the main entrance

 the largest church, closed for renovation

 not yet frozen, still able to stand still and take a picture

 a smaller church, very ornate inside but not in the style of most Orthodox churches; it had a very 18th or 19th century feel to the inside with a lot of heavy gilded frames and a square, open interior hall without standing pillars and without painted walls
 except near the altar
 looking back towards the entrance


 a church erected over one of the entrances - also currently closed for renovation


walking (the long way around) the outer walls to get to the cemetery - it used to be a fortified convent
     Attached to the convent is a large state cemetery, where many famous personages of the Soviet Union are buried, including Galina Ulanova, Natalya Bessmertnova, and Igor Moiseyev, as well as Chekhov, Mayakovsky, Shostakovich, and Prokofiev. Unfortunately, our intrepid teachers only managed to find some of these graves, because Hannah had not dressed warmly enough and after three hours of walking around  in the sub-zero temperatures was so cold that she could not speak properly."
 Galina Ulanova
 Igor Moiseyev
 Chekhov
        Natalya Bessmertovna

     Undiscouraged, she ventured out alone several days later to Victory Park. The effect of the soaring central obelisk and grand granite walkway was somewhat marred by the fact that large, colorful stages were being erected for the celebration of the Orthodox Christmas on January 6th. However, despite the drizzle and the distractions, our teacher got in a good wander, and was particularly impressed and moved by the monument out behind the main building, "The Tragedy of the Peoples."
 Triumphal Arch outside Victory Park

 the entrance to Victory Park (commemorating World War II)

 apparently there are fountains in summertime

 statue of Nike at the top of the obelisk, which is ten cm tall for every day of the war (141.8 meters)

 St. George slaying the Nazi dragon at the base of the obelisk

 the church in the park

 the eternal flame


 hangar with WWII-era planes

 memorial synagogue

 part of the "Tragedy of the Peoples" Holocaust monument



 "Let the memory of them be held sacred throughout the centuries"

 another view of the church

 looking back down the walk
 the biggest Christmas tree yet

     The next day she went out gallivanting with the neighbors in their car. This was a novel experience for our young teacher, who hadn't driven through the centre of Moscow yet. The outing itself was a bit of a failure, because there was such a mist over the city that the view from the highest hill in Moscow - the destination of the venture - was not much of a view. I must admit, it was very amusing to watch Rinad (Lilya and Timour's father) trying to educate all and sundry about the history of Stalin's seven sister skyscrapers while Hannah listened politely and shivered and Lilya and Timour didn't listen and instead got into a contest to see who could blow their breath (visible in the cold air) into the other's face. The dinner afterwards was a great deal more enjoyable. Our teacher was feasted by the neighbors, and she bravely tried her first taste of холодец (holodyets), a gelled meat, which wasn't as bad as she thought it would be. Now, however, she is in a bit of a quandary as to how to repay a hospitality so generous that she stayed over at the flat next door for four hours!
    "Who are you?"
    "Oh, uh, hello, Hannah, I'm Patricia. I'm the correspondent for TMM Moscow, and -"
     "What are you doing in my room?"
     "Umm, well Bob, I think that's all the time we have for today, on Flat 409! This is Patricia, TMM Moscow, signing out!"
*Commercial Break*
     "Do you ever feel stifled by the Moscow city atmosphere? Do you ever wish you could escape the tower block surroundings in which you live? Then you need to make the trip to the Mitino Landscape Park! Here, we have all the joys of the wilderness* within convenient reach of home. Rediscover your primal self in this untamed* wilderness. Imitate the divine by walking on water*. View the beasts of the wild at play in their natural environment! Drink in the sparkling cold air and feel the sun* on your face! Special offer for large families and the elderly! Don't hesitate! Visit the Mitino Landscape Park today!
    * "wilderness is open to interpretation and is here interpreted as being limited to the following: 'mice, rats, dogs, cats, skiers, ducks, finches, crows, and the occasional naked man coming out of his homemade banya. 
     *  Some dogs are not tame. Mitino Landscape Park is not responsible for any injury mental or physical occasioned by contact with these dogs. 
     * Walking on water is possible only in winter when the pond is frozen. Thank you for your understanding in this matter. In summer walking on water is forbidden, as is swimming in imaginary water (see "Stating the Obvious").
     *   "Sun" is open to interpretation and may also be defined as "clouds".
 the brief appearance of the sun - it looks like morning but it's 1:00 p.m.

 birches on the edge of the pond

 Ok, who wants to jump off the pier into the water?

 looking out across the pond

 signs of "wildlife"

 the clouds are moving in





    Welcome back! You're listening to TTM Moscow, all news, all the time. Well, at least most of the time. Theoretically, once a week...or once every two or three weeks... Anyways, let's hear the news from the home front! Sally and Jim- over to you!
    " Thanks, Bob. Well, in current NC news Dad A. is still out of a job, to the surprise and consternation of all and sundry, though he is following several promising leads."
    "Genius is never recognized in its own time, is it, Sally?"
    "Have to agree with you there, Jim. Mom A.'s health has improved since last month, and she has been spotted at the ballet school recently with her young daughter, the promising ballerina S.A.. E.A. has seen the arrival of an impressive new bike, and he has promised not to fall over the front of the handlebars and break his shoulder and give everyone else in the family a heart attack like he did with his last bike. S.A. is exploring the capabilities of some technological gadget that at the moment I can't remember the name of, G.A. and W.A. are showing their academic brilliance as usual, and O.A. and D.A. are asleep. All is as it should be, if Dad A. could just find a job. That is sure to happen soon."
    "And, Sally, don't forget the great performance of Alice in Wonderland that took place at Meredith College this week."
     "Of course! Well, unfortunately this event was closed to the press, but by all accounts it was incredible as usual. Alice in particular was impressively played, along with all the other parts played by members of the English department. No, we're not at all biased here on TMM Moscow."
    "And in an interesting case of parallelism, this very week our teacher here in Moscow saw the arrival of a new student, a small, bright young girl with blonde hair and blue eyes named Alice."
     "You're joking!"
     "No, I'm quite serious! Well, I think that just about wraps it up for N.C. news."
    "Jim, you're right. Back to you, Bob."
    "Aaaand that looks like all we have time for today on TMM Moscow! Have a great week, folks, and be sure to tune in next week for updates on dancing, buying Bolshoi tickets, learning Russian, and all the other trials, travails, and triumphs taking place here in the capital city.
This is TMM Moscow, and your host Bob, signing off."